The fashion of any age and period plays a very important role in shaping the culture and the process of socialisation. One such clothing of the Elizabethan Age was its Elizabethan Breeches.
Breeches have been called by many names because of changes in language and customs. However, the use remains the same. The name of the clothing Breeches or Knee- Breeches were the terms used in the late 16th century in England for a piece of clothing worn above the knees by men. It was worn by men of all classes and were made of different fabrics.
‘Breeches’ in the medieval period meant hose or underpants. By the Tudor era, hosen had been separated into two parts – upper hose called breeches and nether hose, called stockings.
Different Types of Fabric Used
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The choice of fabric differed for the different classes. Men from the high class and nobility wore breeches made of silk, velvet, satin, taffeta, sarcenet and leather. Many of these materials and the dyes to produce their bright colours were imported from foreign countries. They were very expensive.
The lower classes wore Breeches made of cheaper fabrics and materials such as wool. This was because of the cost and its use. The nobility wore them for style and look fashionable whereas the people from the lower ranks wore it because of its durability, ease and because it could be worn at work.
Elizabethan Breeches and Nether Hose
The clothing of the Elizabethan era resembled much like the clothing of modern times. The Elizabethan Breeches were also called Nether Hose and simply hoses fitted to the leg, just as the modern tights. The Breeches were open at the crotch and had a front opening. Mostly the Breeches were worn over Canions.
During this time, a new fashion came into existence when people started to cut and slash their clothes creating lines and layers. These linings used to be pulled out to show and emphasize a difference in materials, colours, designs, layers and fabrics used. These linings were called Pullings and Drawings Out as it was pulled out through the slash and cuts. This gave an interesting design to the breeches.
The Different Types of Breeches
There were many types of Elizabethan Breeches. Some of them are:
1. Trunk Hose or Short Breeches: Trunk Hose were very short breeches worn tightly with a full-length hose on the trunk of the body.
2. Venetian Hose: The name derives its roots from Venice, Italy. These were worn beneath the knee and were tied with silk cords and points.
3. French Hose: These were not very tight and were semi-fitted tied at points beneath the knees. French hose was designed and fitted with costly cords and points and was generally won by the upper classes men and nobility of high rank and stature.
4. Slops: These were very loose breeches reaching below the knee and were decorated with very fancy material.
5. Common French Hose: Thees was the cheaper version of the French hoses and was worn by the lower classes because of its cheaper fabrics and materials. they were very loose and round in shape, reaching below the knees.
6. Galligaskin or the Gally-Hose Breeches: These came from Gascony and then to England. These were very loose and full in shape and size which reached below the knee and was decorated with bands. They also had pockets.
7. Lederhosen: These were made of leather and was originally worn by people of Germany. It had pansied slops and were full in size with layered slops. It usually hung below the knees.
The Elizabethan Fashion and Trend
The Elizabethan Breeches became a very popular piece of clothing for the people. Men started figuring out new designs and came up with interesting styles, patterns and new shapes.
Breeches came in a variety of colours. The rich colours and dyes were imported to make the breeches. It eventually became one of the most worn outfits by men and is still popular today.